Diet Information & Ideas

Some Companion animals require special dietary considerations. 

In researching dogs, for instance, I have discovered that many of the things I believed to be true, are not absolute Truths. Diets are as varied as the people who use them, and the preferences of the animals who eat them. So much depends on so many variables, that I have come to the conclusion that there ARE no hard & fast “Rules” of canid nutrition (short of a few physiological toxins and requirements.) There are only suggestions & guidelines. One has to be flexible. Here, then, are some basic guidelines, references, & research that I have gleaned for your perusal, including the diet that I use for my own personal companions, and some of the reasons I chose it. I hope you will find some interesting, helpful information here, and maybe some new ideas. Highlighted items within the page are links.

Protein Needs

One of the nutrition concepts that I found very confusing was necessary protein levels. I have heard so many different things about canid protein needs, ranging from the extremes of Vegan diets, to a straight carnivorous diet. The Truth, tho, is Canids are Omnivorous. In the wild, wolves are considered Opportunistic Eaters. That's a fancy way of saying they are very functional and adaptive!!

            

Canids are omnivores.  They have the enzymes to digest both plant and meat foods.  If their diet is higher in meat, they will produce more  proteases to cope with them.  If their diet is higher in plants they will shift to produce more amylases and other carbohydrate chopping enzymes.  It's actually one digestive system but it has the ability to shift in either direction through a process called "enzyme induction".

Don't let the taxonomists confuse the issue.  They have been calling wolves carnivores for years.  That is a taxonomic designation, not a designation related to biological function.

Don't assume that "high protein" means "meat" either.  You can increase dietary protein with plant sources foods or with meat or with a combination.  So it may well be that wolves and wolfdogs need more protein, but that does not mean that they necessarily need more meat. There are many ways to balance the protein intake of an omnivore.

Dr. Norla M. Antinoro

Many of the commercial dog foods available use processes that up the protein count without adding ANY nutritive value to the food. Additives such as beet pulp, corn, feathers, feet, even soy, (more on soy later) can increase the listed protein requirements without increase to quality. Indeed, many of these additives cause a marked decrease to quality. Many of the packaging additives react with other ingredients and cause a deterioration of the product quality IN THE BAG!!! So by the time you get your dog food home, it's already well into its' "shelf life". Since the US doesn't regulate pet foods as well as it should, commercial pet foods can be a real gamble. Read THIS informative website for a real eye opener.

In order to puzzle out what level protein your Companion requires there are many factors that need to be taken into consideration. In addition to the metabolism of the individual animal, other things need to be taken into account, such as, the living location (inside/outside, cold/warm climate, high/low temperatures), activity level, age, health condition, and protein source. For an animal not having to run and hunt for food, living in a warm climate, for example, 25% protein may be too high. It can make them hyper. A diet which is too high in protein can cut down on essential nutrients; potassium for example. Latest research also has recommended against the higher protein Puppy Chows for the larger breeds of dogs, as they can make their bones grow too fast and can cause serious health problems later in life. 

In all these years of living with animals, I have tried a TON of nutritional additives, none of which made a significant difference in health. Until I met Dr. Gary Pusillo of Apperon at the Phoenix Exotics Convention. I was very impressed with the introduction he gave, and decided to try his product. I have now used Oasis Carnivore since June of 2004. I simply cannot express the jump in overall condition of my babies. Their coats feel luxurious and plush, their skin has lost any flakiness. They seem much less susceptible to parasitic advances. They smell better. They act younger, more playful. This vitamin and mineral supplement is the very best I have EVER tried in over 40 years of animal husbandry.

They also carry a neonatal supplement called Fortifier Plus which I have tried with my baby formula in lieu of any additional vitamin supplement. I am VERY impressed with the results. My America is an Apperon baby. As a direct result of Dr. Gary's formula, and the kind mentoring of Sue Cranston , I have changed my kidz' diet to a raw diet, with Oasis Carnivore as a vitamin/mineral supplement, and my "kibble soup" as an occasional treat. YES, I realize I sound like a walking advertisement. But when you find something that actually WORKS, designed by SCIENTISTS who actually have the animals' best interests in mind and at heart, who work with responsible private owners to improve the quality of life of our pets, well, sometime you have to stand on the rooftops and sing loudly. Consider yourselves sung to!! I've never been a fad feeder, changing diets too often is hard on their systems. I've used this product for 11 months now, and I am very glad I found these folks !!!

My Take on Soy

Back in the 1960's, it became "common knowledge" within the AKC dog clubs that soy was causing bloat. My Vet explained to me that since dogs don't digest soy quickly, it sits in the stomach and begins to rot, causing gas. The gas accumulates, and can cause gastric distress. Yet, forty years later, I am still seeing soy being used as an acceptable filler for commercial dog foods.

Corn, wheat and soy are the three biggest dietary allergens in kibbles.

"Much research has linked low levels of serum cholesterol with “dominance aggression” in humans. Now we learn that low cholesterol causes the same problem in dogs. Scientists found that aggressive dogs had levels of total cholesterol, HDL-cholesterol and triglycerides significantly lower than dogs who were gentle (J Vet Med A Physiol Pathol Clin Med 2003 Sep;50(7);339-42). Here’s a thought: since soy lowers cholesterol, and since many brands of dog food contain soy, is the soy in dogfood causing dogs to be more aggressive than they used to be?"
Sally Fallon and Mary Enig

So why are we feeding our dogs this junk??? It's terrific for menopausal women, and even THAT is debated, but as a nutritional ingredient for our dogs it is utterly inappropriate. Go look at your dog kibble label. Look at the ingredients. If it's got soy in it ANYWHERE, please consider switching brands to a kibble with no soy. This stuff's just not good for our animals.

Raw Diets

Kymythy Schultze, a certified animal-health instructor, wildlife rehabilitator, veterinarian assistant, and editor of "The Holistic Dog & Cat" claims a raw food diet makes a huge difference in cleaner teeth, fewer parasites, better behavior, better skin and coat, smaller poops, no body odor, and fewer ear problems.  The problem with heated foods is that lots of vitamins and minerals are destroyed, essential fatty acids are transformed to trans-fatty acids, food enzymes are destroyed, and molecular structure is changed.

For this diet, four basic ingredients are needed, and should be served at room temperature in steel bowls.   Steel bowls are recommended because they never develop cracks in which bacteria can breed and contaminate your pet's food (as ceramic bowls could), and they never provide any chemical outgassing that can be a source of toxins and disease (like plastic bowls do).  They last a lifetime and are just healthier for your dog.  As long as they don't get so cold that your dog's tongue sticks to eat when he tries to eat.  :-) An added bonus is that steel bowls are not easily eaten. *grin*

Raw meat ~1 pound
     Beef, poultry, lamb, rabbit, fish (not salmon)
     Both muscle and organ meat
     Eggs

Calcium ~1 or 2 pieces
     Raw bones - all kinds - necks, wings

Raw Veggies ~ 1/4 cup
     Both above and below the ground
     Too much makes dog too alkaline
     Grate very fine in food processor, blender, juicer
     Carrot, sweet potato, broccoli, red cabbage...
     Ginger

Extras ~1 tsp each

     Making up for poor soils, low nutrients
     50/50 kelp/alfalfa
     Flaxseed oil for essential fatty acids
     Cod liver oil
    Vitamin C - buffered powdered - Ester C

For example, mix up the following for your Companion's Meal:

Ground beef,
sweet potato,
broccoli,
parsley,
alfalfa/kelp powder,
flaxseed oil,
cod liver oil,
vitamin C powder,
one egg or liver.
Use bones for dessert

Also, give a whole chicken once a week, and for treats use raw pecans, raisins, nuts, & fruits.
Organically grown or raised is always best. :-)

For my guys, when I do this I've had to compromise and be creative with substitutions, and I will prepare it even if I am out of some of the ingredients.  I even use this with cooked meat sometimes, and my guys especially like the mixture frozen first, then cut in slices for them. This also gives them something to exercise their jaws and clean their teeth with.  It also makes it easy to prepare ahead and store until needed.  However, nothing beats freshly prepared meals for nutrition.
 -- (my Thanks to Marsha Penner for this recipe-diet)

A similar & very popular method of feeding is called the BARF diet. BARF stands for Biologically Appropriate Raw Foods, or as it popularly known, Bones and Raw Foods. 

Most Canine Nutritionists recommend feeding a raw diet that consists of the following: 

50%-60% raw meaty bones. 

40%-50% raw, leafy vegetables, over-ripe fruits of any kind and very small amounts of grains and dairy foods. 

The supplements (though if your canine is eating a diet that consists of the items above in the correct amount, it is probable he/she won't need any kind of supplement) that seem most prescribed are: Vitamin C, brewers yeast, kelp, and cod liver, corn, wheat germ, cottonseed, sunflower and peanut oils.

Personally, I am not at all sure that this ratio is the BEST for wolfdogs. Many high contents are grain intolerant, and the addition of grains as supplements makes for other problems, such as diarrhea. I think the higher content wolfdogs really require more digestible proteins than 50-60%. I do think that the addition of fruits and veggies to a canine's diet is advantageous, especially if done at an early age. It can be part of the enrichment program. My kidz think carrots and apples are really yummy treats!

Dr. Mark Pokras, DVM had an excellent chart on Calcium-Phosphorous Ratio Tables for meats
http://www.iwrc-online.org/  but it appears to be offline.
This article’s Author states “most animal foods do not contain the optimal 2 parts calcium : 1 part phosphorus which is optimal for growing animals. Attention should be given to correcting a potential imbalance. Remember: "...you cannot correct a calcium deficiency with ANY amount of bone meal. You must use a Ca source that has little or no phosphorus like calcium carbonate, calcium lactate or calcium gluconate."

From "Wolves, Behavior, Ecology, and Conservation" Edited by L. David Mech and Luigi Boitani Page 124 (Rolf O. Peterson & Paolo Ciucci)

I have also been told that hides will act as a "palatable toothbrush", and assists in tartar control.

For more Information on the BARF Diets & Raw Diets, check these links out.

BARF Resource & Information page
http://www.willowglen.com/barf.htm

Dr. Tom Lonsdale B.Vet.Med. MRCVS
provides many articles on the benefits of the Raw Diet.
http://www.rawmeatybones.com

The BARF Diet Page
http://www.geocities.com/lyncamp.geo/diets.html

This website is FULL of good information about nutrition. Dog Food Comparison Charts
They have even incorporated a nifty Search engine to look up the kibble you use~!
and these two pages on dog food labels are truly informative.
Understanding Dog Food Labels Part 1
Understanding Dog Food Labels Part 2

It includes a page of Doggie Treats, a page about Understanding Dog Food labels & analysis, a Dog Food Analysis Chart series & a page of Toxic plants.
This is an excellent resource.

This next section is an excellent example of cognitive evolution. Back in 2001, I fed the below kibble as my primary nutritional ingredient. I had been feeding this kibble since 1998, I think. As my higher contents became adults, I noticed a marked decrease in digestibility. In 2002, I made the switch to Maxximum Nutrition. In 2004, when I moved, and after much discussion and consideration, I changed my kidz' diet yet again.

Super Premium NutraNuggets,
Lamb & Rice formula kibble.
Here are the Ingredient break-downs.

Crude Protein 25% min.
Crude Fat 15% min
 Crude Fiber 3% max
Moisture 10% max
Omega 6 fatty acids 2.4% min
Omega 3 fatty acids .4% min
Glucosamine/Chodroitan 400 ppm min

Ingredients (listed as they appear):

Lamb Meal; brewer's rice; brown rice; rice flour; turkey by-products meal; chicken fat; wheat flour; beet pulp; fish meal; egg product; flaxseed; brewer's dried yeast. Vitamins & Minerals
(Including Vitamin E, C & D)

I knew there were better quality kibbles available, but I just couldn't afford the $1.oo per pound price tag when I was going through over 200 pounds of kibble per month. Several of my kidz required special supplements, and a couple just needed extra portions to catch up. At $15.oo per bag at CostCo, this kibble was affordable, and of medium quality. I found they didn't like the lamb nearly so well. I switched to the Chicken Formula. As Ahanu matured, this kibble gave him the runs. So I switched to...

Maxximum Nutrition Adult - Chicken Formula

Protein = 30%
Fat = 20%
Fiber = 4.0%
Moisture = 10%

Ingredients (listed as they appear):

Chicken, Chicken Meal, Brewer's Rice, Chicken Meal, Yellow Corn, Ground Wheat, Beet Pulp, Calcium Carbonate, Animal Digest, Vegetable Oil, Dried Egg Product, Brewers Yeast, Salt. Vitamins & Minerals

I was pleased at the protein content, and the fact that chicken meat was the first, main ingredient, not some sanitized word for rendered parts... but still, some of the higher contents just weren't thrifty on it. At first I thought the manufacturers had changed their recipe. Now I think it was the grains, even some of the "wholesome" grains, that can cause diarrhea in some grain-intolerant animals. I am now trying ...

Innova Evo

Protein 42.2 %
Fat 22.153 %
Fiber 1.887 %
Moisture 10 %
Calories 4243 Kcal/Kg
Calories 1978 Kcal/lb
Calories 537 KCals/Cup

Ingredients (listed as they appear):

Turkey, Chicken, Turkey Meal, Chicken Meal, Potatoes, Herring Meal, Chicken Fat, Egg, Calcium Carbonate, Garlic, Apples, Carrots, Tomatoes, Cottage Cheese, Alfalfa Sprouts, Dried Chicory Root, Taurine, Lecithin, Rosemary Extract, Vitamins & Minerals, Probiotics

The stuff is horrendously expensive. But since I don't feed kibble as a primary diet, I'm trying it. My low content loves it !! My feral kitty monsters love it too, and steal her food. I'm going to try it with America, who is grain-intolerant, and see what his poops look like. I'll update this page with my findings.

I had always included raw meaty bones as an important element of my kidz' standard diet, both as part of their diet, and as treats. In 2002, probably as a result of exploring ways to help Ahanu's digestive difficulties, I began adding raw human-grade chicken to their diets as a weekly addition. I fed dry kibble with "dog soup" daily, with meaty bones weekly, and raw chicken weekly. In 2004, after meeting Teeghkii's cousins, who were on a mostly raw diet as opposed to mostly kibble, and after meeting Dr. Gary, and after discussing nutrition with Sue Cranston among others, I made the switch to raw. I feed kibble as a treat now, with the warm dog soup as a "comfort food".

I have noticed several noticeable benefits to this switch-over. Teeghkii, before the switch, was developing a considerable case of tartar build up. After making the switch, his teeth are much cleaner. Stools have gotten smaller and harder.. and subsequently easier to pick up!! Several of my kidz have a bit of a weight problem (probably due to Mom's over-compensation!!) and they have firmed up. Spirit has gained weight, Rhi & Bear have lost weight... Everyone has gained condition.

The Butcher is Your Friend

In many places you can find a butcher shop, a place that hand carves cuts of meat. In some rural areas, you can find game processing businesses. My own preference is to shop local with small businesses. I like to support my neighbors! In any event, if you can find somewhere that processes meat, often you can get, for a very reasonable fee, what is called "the trim", or the excess outside areas of the cuts of meat, usually a bit fatty, and the bones. Often, you can get the lower leg parts with the hide still attached. This is an excellent nutritional resource, and a wonderful opportunity for environmental enrichment!

My kidz get elk, moose, deer, & cow and they LOOOVE!! their treats! We separate into smaller bags and freeze for easier storage and dispersal. We wound up buying two extra freezers just for the dogs!! It does save a BUNCH of money though, since you can often get really good deals if you buy in bulk, and you have the storage available if you get a nice gift from your butcher. I have been assured that Christmas cookies are an acceptable form of appreciation. *wink*

Always make sure your butcher shop is graded A by the Dept. of Health, and is kept clean. The meat you feed your animals should be the same quality as that you would eat yourself.

Now, I'll bet you're asking, "Yeah, but how much chicken do I have to give them per day? Kibble is easy to figure: there's suggested feeding instructions right on the side of the bag!!" Or, if you're like me, you forgot all about that important question until you have 1) bag of chicken in hand, and 2) one hungry wolfdog before you. So how much should you feed? Pieces or weight??

On a general rule: It Depends.

  • The time of year. Appetites tend to increase during the winter months.


  • Their activity level.

  • The regional climate. Colder weather=more needed fuel, warmer weather=less needed fuel.

  • Their age.

  • Their morphology. Hey, some of us are born to be round.

  • Their stress level and overall health. Fighting stuff off takes fuel.

A healthy young male of about 130 pounds does well with between 3-5 pounds per day. That translates into approx. 3-5 chicken quarters, if they are chunky ones, if they are little ones, 5-7 quarters. It's a good idea to weigh them, so you have a better idea of what size weighs what. I have seen fluctuations of between 1/2 pound to 1 pound in commercially available quartered chickens. Chicken quarters have the best ratio of calcium:phosphorous/bone:meat of any other parts.

My kidz' diets vary. Spirit only gets about 1 pound per day- one quarter - and she's a stable 50 pounds. Teeghkii is built much bigger-boned, and he's right around 120 pounds. He's getting about 2-3 pounds per day. He was getting a bit over-weight on kibble, so he's been on a diet. He is getting trimmer, but hasn't lost weight, just inches. America was getting around 2-3 pounds per day, and I'm going to increase his chicken. Making the switch from kibble to raw has been in real learning experience with me. I found I was over-feeding with kibble, and most of my kidz with the exception of Spirit were noticeably over-weight. There is alot of information available on the negative effects of over-feeding, and how this might affect the development of the bones. I didn't want to make any mistakes with America. See THIS ARTICLE on Large Dogs & Arthritis, and THIS ONE on Growth Related Diseases.

I'm still experimenting on my measures and their individual needs. I feel as if I have a good balance between feeding raw chicken in a good calcium:phosphorous ratio, with Oasis vitamins.

We have a unique opportunity
 To Learn from some of the most knowledgeable people in the Wolfdog Community
The folks at Indigo Mountain Nature Center
are offering e-Seminars on Canine Health & Well-Being
April 2005 !! WRITE HERE for Your Reservations!!

When I fed a mostly kibble diet, I often had to deal with the Dreaded "D" word. Sometimes one of my krew would feel a little under the weather and get diarrhea. I would then adjust their diet for a few days till their poops started to firm up. When that happened, (& it sometimes does even if you feed the best) I would cut the kibble down to about a quarter cup, add cooked rice, cooked in fat-free chicken broth, preserve any non-absorbed broth and add back in, add cottage cheese, and a little powdered acidophilus and within a few days, they would back to the firm poops & happy romping. At least, the ones that didn't have fussy tummies.  

NOTE: Anytime you change diets, it is recommended to do so slowly. Add some of the new diet at 1:4 ratio, for example, to the old, and increase the ratio over a period of approx. one month, until you are finally switched over. This will greatly decrease the potential of  intestinal stress.

Speaking of Poop....

Here's some information about Poop,
and why it's important to track.
The Straight Poop on Poop

I hope you have found some good ideas here, and perhaps some good tips. Good health is necessary for a good, long Quality of life. I wish you & your Companion this.